2004 was a year of unrest in Kano, Nigeria. The largely Muslim city-kingdom was infested with Islamic and Christian fighters bent on killing each other (lawlessness continues in Kano today. If you have the stomach for it, read about Kano’s problem with the ritualistic sacrifice of children). It was in this unwelcoming environment that I found myself stuck.
No money. No plane ticket. No friends or guides.
How did I get here?
It all started with a mistake in Amsterdam. Tired from jet-lag and poor sleep and an all-night flight from the US, I left my notebook on the plane. Normally this wouldn’t have been a problem, but I also don’t normally keep my tickets in my notebook either.
Realizing this too late, I found myself already on my connecting flight to Nigeria with no return ticket home.
Two months earlier, when my travel agent was booking the flight, it looked like there was no way to get me out of the country in time to meet my family for vacation in Missouri. And then we saw a KLM flight from Kano. “Let’s take it,” I said without any knowledge of the recent …

